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Old 05-19-2008, 03:01 PM
Walther
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Default Brake pads

I would appreciate your comments on this one..

I took the car out to a CFR Autocross at the Brooksville Airport on Saturday
(5-17). My intent was to simply shake the car down, see if everything is working, etc. Other than driving the car on and off the alignment rack and trailer, the car really hasn't moved. I did not want to be at the drivers school next month and discover the car wasn't performing as designed.

ANYWAY,

One of the things I wanted to accomplish was to bed the brakes. Unfortunatly the course was tight and slow, so bedding wasn't possible. However, the director let me run it down outside of the course during lunch. I quickly learned I may have WAY too much rear brake in the car (Wilwood 4 piston, 12 X .810's), as I had to dial ALL of the pressure out of valve to keep from locking the rears up. There could be contributing factors as well, such as shocks and springs, but..

The question is (finally): I am using 01 Compound Perf. Frictions. I was on the brakes HARD from approximately 80 mph to 10 mph repeatedly about 10 times. I discovered an incredible amount of brake dust on the front wheels afterwards. It turned wheels from silver to nearly black. Was this the pads, a result of the bedding process, or both? Anyone?
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:14 PM
PbFoot PbFoot is offline
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Default Fox Brakes

I've raced a Fox for years with 01 pads. The brake dust is normal. I had to put two brake bias controls in series to the rear to stop the rear lock up. Under braking there is very little weight on the rear of a Fox.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:25 PM
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jkopp jkopp is offline
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I would suggest using a different compound on the rear than the fronts. The 01 pads worked well for us on the T1 car when they came out. Great initial bite, very agressive pad. Used up a set of fronts per race. I'm currently using stock GM pads with stock rear brakes on the Camaro. My bet is that you can help the lockup with a simple change in compounds.

-Kopp

BTW - We've since switched to Hawk DTC70's on the T1 car (FYI).
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:44 PM
jimwheeler jimwheeler is offline
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Using street pads in the rear should help.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:49 PM
Dawson Motorsports
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Mark, What size rear pistons? You may have too much caliper. The simple cure like Jeff said is maybe change rear pad compound.
Chuck
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Old 05-19-2008, 04:19 PM
fairlane_68
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I use ceramic pads on stock rotors and the car stops on a dime. It used to stop on about $1.50. Yes, the car is still being street driven.


Sidebar: How or what did you do to get the amber/yellow headlights?
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:28 PM
Walther
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Quote:
Sidebar: How or what did you do to get the amber/yellow headlights?
I used an adhesive film from www.lamin-x.com. instead of taping off the headlights. I thought it was neat because it made it look like a GT car. Patrick James did the same thing after he asked me where/how I did it.

Chuck, they are Dynalites with 15/16" pistons. They were locking up REAL easy until I shoved the lever on the proportioning valve all the way forward. I bought the entire set-up in kit form from Wilwood and am not real sure what the compound is. I too, was thinking about getting a less aggressive compound but don't know where to start. Suggestions?

Kopp, did I read that right? A set of pads per race? or season? OMG, I hope not "per race". The damn things are $175.00 a set.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:43 PM
KW78
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I had some of the same problems with PFC. Plus, for whatever reason, they boiled the fluid much easier. Lost a race to Ross Murray over that now that I think about it..

Ended up going back to Hawk Blue fronts, Blue or black rears.

Kyle
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:00 PM
t4wallace t4wallace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walther
Kopp, did I read that right? A set of pads per race? or season? OMG, I hope not "per race". The damn things are $175.00 a set.
That sounds about right. Back with the old AS set up (GM 3rd gen), we'd get one qualifying (4 laps max) and one race session on our AS cars w/ one set of PF 01 pads at a national weekend. After that, we'd mix and match what was left for practice. If they weren't tapered beyond use. Again, old set up. To get the rear bias out, one car ran a double proportioning valve and the other ran lifetime ceramic pads from Murray's.

Kopp knows better, but it seemed front running T1 Vettes in CenDiv pretty much pitched the front brakes after one weekend.
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Tom Wallace
Great Lakes, Detroit Region
Hoosier Tire
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:04 PM
Walther
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I'm thinking, based on how much I had to take out of the proportioning valve, that I need something MUCH less aggressive than than the -01's I have on the fronts. To further expand, the lock-up in the back was instantaneous, each time. So much so that I couldn't "modulate" it out with the pedal. Once I pushed the lever all the forward, I could finally threshhold the brakes somewhat, but the rear-end was still felt as if it was dancing around.
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