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Old 08-03-2007, 12:47 PM
Scott Davie
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Default Lowering front of mustang

I want to lower the ride height on my 95 mustang AS. I can't find anything that says it is legal (or not) to used longer ball joints. I have been looking at all the other cars and they sit alot lower than mine. My ride height is about 6 1/2" and there is about 1 1/2" above my front tires and the other cars you can't even see the top of the tire. Need some help and info on this. I hope by lower the car some ,that it will help take the push out. :: Thanks for any help. Scott
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:07 PM
jimwheeler jimwheeler is offline
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Scott,
You cannot change from stock ball joints. Most everyone has lowered their cars by changing springs or putting in weight jacker screws, or a combination of both. On the Firebird there are shorter springs, weight jacker screws and modified (shorter) struts. That, coupled with sliding plates on the top of the struts to adjust the camber, is what it takes to lower it to the legal minimum.
wheel

9.1.6.4.d.5
"Bushing material is unrestricted except that control arm to spindle ball joints must be stock or equivalent replacement."
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:24 PM
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koscieldrk koscieldrk is offline
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Scott Jim is correct. Caster Camber Plates. Shorter Springs and Weight Jackers.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:53 PM
Scott Davie
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This car has weight jackers on it and I have lowered it as far as I think I can with them. But I am still not as low as the rest of the cars. you could drive a truck under mine. So after that, does everyone start cutting the spring down? Or buy shorter springs and if so, is there a part # for the springs?
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:36 PM
jimwheeler jimwheeler is offline
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Scott,
If you cut down the spring, it will raise the spring rate and just make the push that much worse. You need to find out what your spring rate is. (Many speed shops will have a press that measures the rate) Many springs have it marked or etched in the bottom of the spring.
Depending on the length and the rate, get a shorter spring with either the same or a softer rate. If it is a very stiff spring, a softer spring of the same length will lower the car and take away understeer.

There is no easy answer, since much depends on where you are now.

Start by finding out length and rates for both front and rear springs and we can help you from there.
wheel
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:56 PM
BMiller
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Lowering does not equate to better handling, especially on a Mustang. The front roll center is already below ground level. You'll need to adjust your steering arms or you'll suffer from massive bump steer; they should be parallel to the front control arms when everying is static. There is a boat load of literature on the Mustang, I have some links at work but don't have access to them now.
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Old 08-03-2007, 08:32 PM
Walther
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Quote:
9.1.6.4.d.5
"Bushing material is unrestricted except that control arm to spindle ball joints must be stock or equivalent replacement."
Wouldn't the Steeda X2 ball joint be considered an equivalent replacement?
http://www.steeda.com/products/x2_balljoints.php
Steeda claims they are...
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Old 08-03-2007, 08:52 PM
SedanMan SedanMan is offline
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Default springs n things

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimwheeler
Scott,
If you cut down the spring, it will raise the spring rate....
wheel
Cutting the spring affects 'free length' (with no load) and 'final length' (after the spring is loaded), and cutting the end coil may or may not affect spring rate, depending on the spring end configuration. I'm not sure it would be advisable to cut off a "closed & ground" spring end configuration because all you'd have left is a pointed end of a free coil which wouldn't mate very well to a spring perch (unless the perch is specifically designed to accommodate a free coil end).

For reference, spring rate is the amount of force it takes to deflect the spring a certain amount. For car springs it's usually expressed in pounds per inch (lb/in). If you have a 1,000 "pound" spring (most people don't say "pound per inch" spring) it means that for every 1,000 lb of weight you put on the spring it will compress 1 inch.

Also, as pointed out in other posts it's the 'active coils' that one needs to consider, not the total number of coils.

Last edited by SedanMan; 08-04-2007 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:05 PM
jimwheeler jimwheeler is offline
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Bill,
I don't doubt your post, but every time I have ever tested a spring and then taken out a coil, or half a coil, the next test showed that the effective rate had changed and the spring acted as if it was a stiffer spring in the car.
Why, I don't know.
wheel
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:08 PM
jimwheeler jimwheeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walther
Wouldn't the Steeda X2 ball joint be considered an equivalent replacement?
http://www.steeda.com/products/x2_balljoints.php
Steeda claims they are...
According to their technical analysis, "The X2 balljoint has a longer shaft, to raise the spindle relative to the balljoint pivot point."

So, by their own definition, it is not the same as stock. There were a number of these types of ball joints thrown out at the Runoffs a number of years ago.

Jim
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